London Fashion Week Mens (previously London Collections: Mens) recently ended, leaving us with a taste of trends for AW17. Here are my top memorable moments!
#1. The Return of the Queen
In her debut show on the London men’s schedule (her first in London for years), and in a barely concealed dig at the establishment, Vivienne Westwood had her models in 80’s style pinstripe suits distorted in various ways – my favourite being a pairing with bloomers instead of trousers. All accessorized with tattered crowns and multi-coloured foil sweet wrappers tacked on finger nails. Showing both men’s and women’s, tailoring featured strongly for the men’s whilst fabulous frocks and separates defined the women’s. She’s still got it. In spades.
#2. Craig Green smashes it. Again!
Craig Green rips up the rule book again as he continues to rework the male silhouette. Somehow he manages to make clothes that are tactile yet utilitarian, cosy yet avante-garde. I want to look at them. I want to wear them (wish I could). And I want to stroke them.
#3. Wool for Leather
I’m not a fan of crochet. However, the crocheting on JW Anderson‘s “Pierce” rucksack (a reworking of his popular women’s Pierce Bag) surprisingly works. Instantly recognizable, it’s likely to fly off the shelves once it hits shops. Mostly because I doubt only the boys will be sporting this. But let me say this people: I am not that crazy about the crocheting elsewhere. And it is everywhere in this collection.
#4. Amazing Grace
Perhaps lacking the opulence that we’ve come to expect from Grace Wales Bonner, this collection still packs a punch as she continues to challenge ideas of sexuality, gender and black identity. See my post from last Summer “Gender Bending in Menswear – is this the future?” for more on this talented young designer. Destined for great things for sure.
#5. Hey Boys. Hey Girls
It might have been London Fashion Week “Mens” but several labels (notably Casely-Hayford, Wales Bonner, Matthew Miller, Vivienne Westwood and Sibling) chose to show both their men’s and and women’s collections in combined shows. Whether by necessity (it makes sense financially) or by design (gender-fluid/unisex fashion has continued to grow) this seems to be a developing trend. I quite like the idea but buyers having to rejig their usual buying schedule might not so much!
So another strong men’s event for London which remains the home of menswear in my opinion. Next LFWM: June 2017!