My Style Artist Says……

Trainers or Sneakers. Keep Them Box Fresh Because Age Matters

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There was a time not very long ago (alright, quite a bit ago!) when I would deliberately scruff up new trainers to make them look “worn in” before daring to wear them out for the first time. A time when wearing snow white trainers would have been considered a bit naff and definitely dodgy style-wise. Nowadays though, I am firmly within “that age bracket” that requires no less than box fresh. But when did this happen?!

A friend jokingly asked me about this last week which caused me to think about it and led to this post. So, here’s the thing, and at the risk of coming off a bit prescriptive and possibly ageist(?!), 35 would seem to be the cut-off age.  Not really sure why. The wide range of  grown-up/”fashion” trainers around today thanks to the likes of Acne Studios, Puma and its various collaborations, and the fashionista’s favourite Adidas Stan Smiths, etc. must have something to do with it. But, whatever the reason, get your handy bleach wipes at the ready if you are over 35 (boy or girl) and intent on continuing to wear trainers.  Oh, and be sure to change your laces regularly too.  And try and avoid the rain. Sorry, them’s just the rules. 🙂  Anyway, who can deny that a pair of scruffy old Stan Smiths just don’t look the same as a box fresh pair.  Actually, they might as well be different trainers. Right?

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My “gleaming white” Stan Smiths

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These Puma High-Top beauties have never seen rain. No mean feat when you live in London!

What I’m wearing: Sweater (Hysteric Glamour)| Skirt (H&M)| White Trainers (Adidas)| Black Suede Trainers (Puma)| Clutch (Kenzo Paris)

Golden nuggets from London Fashion Week

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And so we say farewell to another London Fashion Week, concluding what has widely been regarded as a great success in terms of range of designers and talent. No mean feat coming off the back of Brexit and certainly a job well done by the British Fashion Council. So, until the LFW fashion gravy train comes around again, here are my top five moments from this one. And what stonkers they are!

#1. Christopher Kane’s collaboration with Crocs (a.k.a. Crocgate)

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Christopher Kane sending models down the runway in embellished Crocs for his SS17 show nearly sent Twitter into meltdown. Never has Fashiondom been so divided. I LOVE Crocs on children, my daughter practically lives in hers all Summer. But, unless you are a hardworking, on-your-feet-all day and-night, bonafide healthcare professional, Crocs have no business anywhere near your feet in public. Period. Embellished by Christopher Kane or not.  Not that anything could stop this flooding the high street in several months’ time though. Sigh.

#2. Matty Bovan for Fashion East Womenswear SS17

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I just must not be seeing what everyone else can.  This collection has got the world of fashion aflutter and I’m baffled.  The 26 year old Central Saint Martins graduate obviously has talent and flair. His AW15 MA Central Saint Martins show was awesome and since graduating last year he’s already had a stint at Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs. But this collection – WTF? It’s bold, yes. Fun even, with a punk rock/New Romantics aesthetic. But it’s also a little shambolic. And unwearable. By anyone. Has everyone else got a bad dose of the Emperor’s New Clothes or have I just lost my fashion sense? Is it me?

#3. Burberry’s AW16 and first ever “See-Now-Buy-Now” collection

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In a seismic change to seasonal fashion, “shopable runway” seems to be taking hold.  First Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger, Diane Von Furstenberg and Ralph Lauren at New York Fashion Week, now Burberry. On one hand, it makes sense. Having to wait for six months for items spotted on the runway to hit the shops is a model that I’ve never fully understood. Also, many of the big houses will surely see this as a way of curbing high street copycats, who are usually able to get their products to market before the runway originals.  But on the other hand, going down this road will surely mean that smaller labels will just not be able to compete, as they are unlikely to have the resources to push things out straight off the runway.  But no one can deny that the idea of buying “in season” is a seductive one to consumers. Key pieces from the Burberry show were sold out within minutes. Is this the way forward? Let’s see.

#4. Sophia Webster’s “Dolly Birds Of Paradise” SS17 show

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Pretty shoes in bird cages. Models in pretty shoes in bigger bird cages. Light, whimsical and fun. A veritable flight of fancy.

#5. Versus Boob Belt (yes I mean a belt FOR boobs)

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Ok, so this probably shouldn’t be such a surprise coming from Donatella Versace.  And it was only one look from the Versus collection and probably just styling for the runway anyway.  But still, it is a belt. Worn around the boobs. A challenging look even for champion boobs.  Let’s just hope that La Versace doesn’t decide to show us how to wear the look. And anyway, didn’t Jodie Marsh do this first?

So roll on next LFW! With a crop of new talent emerging thanks to the British Fashion Council’s NewGen Mentoring Scheme, the future looks bright not just for LFW but for British fashion. Hurrah!

Brocade. I don’t think so.

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Dolce & Gabbana (S. 2016)

I wish people would stop trying to get me to wear brocade. Every few years,  it seems, we are told by the Powers of Fashion that brocade is the “new trend”, the “fabric du jour” with related editorials on “how to wear brocade” and so on. I’m blaming Gucci for the current brocade madness, but Prada and Dolce & Gabbana are at it too. It’s not that I have a problem with the fabric itself which is opulent and ornate (and why it works so well as upholstery and drapery). But it’s also a tad archaic (which, not surprisingly, is why it works so well for ceremonial dress and costumes). What brocade isn’t however, is wearable in any real or meaningful way, at least for those of us that live in the real world. For starters it is bulky, heavy and stiff. This does not make for the most comfortable of fabrics.  And most of us will probably end up in an acrylic/polyester mix version anyway (on account of not being able to afford the silk-woven stuff of the catwalks) which doesn’t help on the comfort front! Second, it’s extremely tricky to style. Too much volume and you risk looking like an overstuffed armchair. As you can see below, sometimes even a “style icon” can’t quite manage it….

Alexa gets it right by leaving out all jewellery except earrings in this Prada ensemble.  But the opaque tights and black accessories are a fail. A small clutch and barely there strappy heels (in muted gold) would have been better.

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Alexa Chung in Prada ( Vogue’s 100 Gala Dinner, London 2016)

Beautifully cut jacket. I could probably live with that on it’s own. But let’s not talk about the rest. And don’t get me started on those loafers.

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Alexa Chung in Gucci (Vogue Festival, London 2016)

Are words really  needed here? I respect her commitment to the look though.

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Jess Glynne in Gucci (BRIT Awards 2016)

So, here’s the thing. If you simply MUST wear brocade then the only way to do it is in small doses. Limit yourself to one (preferably small) piece at a time like shorts or a short skirt and remember to keep everything else simple.

Agree, disagree, indifferent? Let me know!

Addie x

 

 

So what’s in a name anyway?

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Yves Saint Laurent logo on one of the first jackets he designed

“A rose by any other name would smell just as sweet”. Certainly not a sentiment that was shared by all in the aftermath of Hedi Slimane’s controversial 2012 decision to drop the “Yves” from Yves Saint Laurent. Now, following his departure from the label as creative director earlier this year and four years on, the jury is still very much out.

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Hedi Slimane

No one can deny Slimane’s major achievements during his tenure. He has undoubtedly made the brand more “rock and roll” through his music scene and youth culture-driven collections (I suspect Yves himself would have approved). Another stroke of genius was the introduction of a “permanent collection” of key pieces – including “Le Smoking” suiting and leather jackets – which are reproduced every season but never marked down. Sales soared, turning the brand into the highest performer in the Kering group‘s portfolio. And finally, there’s the house’s return to couture, confirmed earlier this month following last year’s announcement and lookbook. (But, before you start reaching for your life savings, the couture line which according to inside sources is going to be “more exclusive than couture” (who knew that was even a thing?),  is apparently only going to be available to those who have been personally approved.  As to what that entails, your guess is as good as mine.)

Inspired by the label’s 1966 Saint Laurent Rive Gauche ready-to-wear line, Slimane saw the re-branding as a way of tapping into the label’s heritage whilst continuing to push it forward. Not a bad idea considering how in need of a re-boot the label was at the time. But the problem is, there are now so many variations of the branding, that it’s frankly all a little confusing! Here’s a quick recap for the uninitiated: the house continues to be Yves Saint Laurent, the ready-to-wear line is Saint Laurent Paris and the iconic Casandre YSL logo continues to be used for the beauty line.  However, the “hand-sewn” label on the reintroduced couture collection will refer to Yves Saint Laurent Couture meanwhile, the accompanying campaign refers to it as “Saint Laurent La Collection de Paris.” You still with me?

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Saint Laurent Logo: Minimalist to some. Boring to others?

So, what next for La Maison (Yves) Saint Laurent? Well, all eyes are on new creative director, Anthony Vaccarello who will be showing his first collection in Paris in October. Will we see the return of “Yves”?  Probably not. Images released in June showing Vaccarello’s vision for the label suggest that the ready-to-wear collection will remain Saint Laurent for the foreseeable future.

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Saint Laurent – Vaccarello teaser

And what of Slimane? Unsurprisingly, speculation has been rife. Some have him returning to Dior. Others as the successor of La Lagerfeld at Chanel. Better still is the suggestion of an eponymous collection. Whatever he ends up doing, the one certainty is that we will probably all be fascinated.