Fashion Week AW 17- High/Low lights from London and the best from Milan so far

A little late with this one (it’s been a busy few weeks!) but here are my high (and low) lights from the recently concluded London Fashion Week.  Follow the link at the end for the best bits from Milan so far….:

#1. Simone Rocha: For using older models. And for nearly changing my mind about velvet. And for a kick-ass collection actually.

simone Rocha3 LFW AW17

Simone Rocha AW 17

simone Rocha LFW AW17

Simone Rocha AW 17

Simone Rocha2 LFW AW17

Simone Rocha AW 17

#2. Ashley Williams: Could someone pinch me please. Stetsons over hoodies tucked into jogging bottoms finished with a pair of pumps? What the hell.

Ashleywilliams LFW AW17

Ashley Williams AW 17

Ashley Williams2 LFW AW17

Ashley Williams AW 17

#3. Burberry: For delivering another “See now buy now” collection.  A super wearable combo show of women’s and men’s. Trousers came high-waisted for men (works for me but I imagine it’s not for everyone) and there were white shirts aplenty! I likey very much.

Burberry AW 17

Burberry AW 17

Burberry2 AW 17

Burberry AW 17

Burberry3 AW 17

Burberry AW 17

Burberry4 AW 17

Burberry AW 17

#4. Antonio Berardi: For a bit of  “casual glam”.  High collars and full skirts stand out.

Antonio Berardi AW 17

Antonio Berardi AW 17

Antonia Berardi2 AW 17

Antonio Berardi AW 17

Antonio Berardi3 AW 17

Antonio Berardi AW 17

#5. Christopher Kane. For continuing to try to get us into Crocs! Obviously it didn’t quite take off with the SS16 bejewelled numbers and so he’s back with an AW 17 fur-lined version. I’m sorry but this is still a no from me.

Christopher Kane AW 17

Christopher Kane AW 17

Chrisotpher Kane2 AW 17

Christopher Kane AW 17

And finally, for the best bits from Milan so far – including Alessandro Michele’s whimsical bumper men’s and women’s show (featuring 119 models!) – click here.

Next stop, Paris!

Addie x

London Fashion Week Mens AW17 – My Highlights


London Fashion Week Mens (previously London Collections: Mens) recently ended, leaving us with a taste of trends for AW17. Here are my top memorable moments!

#1. The Return of the Queen 

In her debut show on the London men’s schedule (her first in London for years), and in a barely concealed dig at the establishment, Vivienne Westwood had her models in 80’s style pinstripe suits distorted in various ways – my favourite being a pairing with bloomers instead of trousers. All accessorized with tattered crowns and multi-coloured foil sweet wrappers tacked on finger nails. Showing both men’s and women’s, tailoring featured strongly for the men’s whilst fabulous frocks and separates defined the women’s. She’s still got it. In spades.


Vivienne Westwood AW17 Mens

#2. Craig Green smashes it. Again! 

Craig Green rips up the rule book again as he continues to rework the male silhouette. Somehow he manages to make clothes that are tactile yet utilitarian, cosy yet avante-garde. I want to look at them. I want to wear them (wish I could). And I want to stroke them.


Craig Green AW17 Mens

#3. Wool for Leather 

I’m not a fan of crochet. However, the crocheting on JW Anderson‘s “Pierce” rucksack (a reworking of his popular women’s Pierce Bag) surprisingly works. Instantly recognizable, it’s likely to fly off the shelves once it hits shops. Mostly because I doubt only the boys will be sporting this. But let me say this people: I am not that crazy about the crocheting elsewhere. And it is everywhere in this collection.


JW Anderson AW17 Mens

#4. Amazing Grace 

Perhaps lacking the opulence that we’ve come to expect from Grace Wales Bonner, this collection still packs a punch as she continues to challenge ideas of sexuality, gender and black identity. See my post from last Summer “Gender Bending in Menswear – is this the future?” for more on this talented young designer. Destined for great things for sure.


Wales Bonner AW17 Mens

#5. Hey Boys. Hey Girls

It might have been London Fashion Week “Mens” but several labels (notably Casely-Hayford, Wales Bonner, Matthew Miller, Vivienne Westwood and Sibling) chose to show both their men’s and and women’s collections in combined shows. Whether by necessity (it makes sense financially) or by design (gender-fluid/unisex fashion has continued to grow) this seems to be a developing trend. I quite like the idea but buyers having to rejig their usual buying schedule might not so much!

AW17 - Matthew Miller womens

Matthew Miller AW17 Womens

AW17 - Casely Hayford - womens2

Casely-Hayford AW17 Womens

AW17 - Sibling womens

Sibling AW17 Womens

So another strong men’s event for London which remains the home of menswear in my opinion.  Next LFWM: June 2017!

It’s ready-to-wear but can we wear it? A spotlight on looks for Spring/Summer 2017 – the best and worst.

In six months’ time, Spring/Summer 2017 ready-to-wear collections from recent Fashion Weeks will be hitting the shops. So, who’s nailed it? Selecting key collections from Paris, because it historically has the widest spread of labels, I’ve assigned each one a WYW “would you wear it” rating, ranging from 10 (awesome, save up and go buy) to 0 (a bit rubbish, best avoid). So, here they are, in no particular order….

Kenzo (Carol Lim and Humberto Leon)


Kenzo SS17

Muted but beautifully cut lines. This “Retro/Modern” collection comes in denim, camo prints and super clean silhouettes. Doesn’t come much more ready-to-wear as far as I’m concerned. WYW Rating: 10 (Because I will happily wear that camo coat RIGHT NOW).

Louis Vuitton (Nicolas Ghesquière)


Louis Vuitton SS17

Drapey dresses and odd tailoring teamed with uninspiring accessories. Nowhere near Ghesquière’s best and not for me.  WYW Rating: 2 (Because I really don’t think you would want to).

Chanel (Karl Lagerfeld)


Chanel SS17

I was surprised by how much I liked this collection. A retrospective with a playful twist. Peppered with constant references to the iconic “Chanel Suit 1.0”, it was vibrant and a perfect symphony of old meets new. WYW Rating: 8 (Because not many of us could get away with a florescent baseball cap worn sideways!).

Alexander McQueen (Sarah Burton)


Alexander McQueen SS17

I love the look and feel of this collection. Tough yet feminine. Edgy but tactile. Gender-fluid perfection and faultless styling. WYW Rating: 5 (Because embroidered tartan and lace is probably not everyone’s cup of tea).

Stella McCartney (Stella McCartney)


Stella McCartney SS17

With “No Leather” and “Thanks Girls” embossed on key pieces from the collection, the designer’s “considerate and conscious dressing” message was unmistakable and is indeed highly commendable. However, there was just a little too much statement and too little fashion for my liking. WYW Rating: 5 (Because not many of us can afford this indulgence).

Giambattista Valli (Giambattista Valli)


Giambattista Valli SS17

This is not a label that I’ve historically related to. But there’s some good stuff here. Romantic but not too twee. And the most uniquely styled posh bomber yet (the cocktail ensemble seen here). WYW Rating: 7 (Because that luxe bomber cocktail ensemble really shouldn’t work but it kinda really does).

Givenchy (Riccardo Tisci)


Givenchy SS17

Spanx-coloured monstrosities awfully styled. Not that any amount of styling could salvage this. WYW Rating: 0 (You can choose to wear it obviously but would you really want to? I mean really?).

Valentino (Pierpaolo Piccioli)


Valentino SS17

Beautiful dresses, elegantly casual and modestly cut (high necklines abound) but sure to flatter most body shapes. Gorgeously simple accessories and unfussy styling as the dresses spoke loudly for themselves. WYW Rating: 10 (Now if only we could afford them!)

Céline (Phoebe Philo)


Céline SS17

I have been a fan of Philo’s since her Chloé days but I was disappointed by this. Outrageously oversized blazers (to near American footballer proportions) and mis-matched shoes (yes, same shoes with a different colour on each foot) completely lost me. Not to mention sandals with tights. WYW Rating: 4 (Unless you are a Tokyo hipster, you will struggle to carry this off).

Acne Studios (Jonny Johansson)


Acne Studios SS17

There wasn’t much in this collection that said Acne to me (and this is one of my favourite labels!). But I may well eat my words in six months’ time when I find myself at Dover Street buying flowing layers of patchwork and scarves. WYW Rating: 6 (You probably would but perhaps just not the pieces from the runway).

Dior (Maria Grazia Chiuri)


Dior SS17

Another collection with a big message (female empowerment). But unlike Stella McCartney, utterly wearable. T-shirts over sheer tulle skirts with trainers – confident, comfortable, cool. Covetable footwear and some fabulous LBD numbers. WYW Rating: 10 (Because it kicks ass).

Chloé (Clare Waight Keller)


Chloé SS17

Painfully understated. Beautifully cut and effortlessly stylish. WYW Rating: 10 (Just because).

And then there were others who didn’t make my list but who certainly stood out:

#1. The most fantastically bonkers  – Maison Margiela (John Galliano)


Maison Margiela SS17

Egg shell caps, spit-toe booties and sweater body suits. What more needs to be said?

#2. The Best tuxedo suit – Olivier Theyskens (Olivier Theyskens)


Olivier Theyskens SS17

It’s a thing of beauty. Just look at it.

#3. The worst  – Balenciaga (Demna Gvasalia)


Balenciaga SS17

Is there a name for leggings that turn into shoes? Sheggings? And they came in garish latex and spandex. There were also HUGE bags in the shape of round North African leather foot pouffes. Awful.

#4. The Summer sandals – Isabel Marant (Isabel Marant)


Isabel Marant SS17

These beauties came in a variety of colours including metallics. I am in full lust mode.

#5. The most surreal – Jacquemus (Simon Porte)


Jacquemus SS17

Every look was accessorized by a boater. But they all looked good.

So that’s it. Overdrafts and credit cards at the ready?

Addie x


Golden nuggets from London Fashion Week

And so we say farewell to another London Fashion Week, concluding what has widely been regarded as a great success in terms of range of designers and talent. No mean feat coming off the back of Brexit and certainly a job well done by the British Fashion Council. So, until the LFW fashion gravy train comes around again, here are my top five moments from this one. And what stonkers they are!

#1. Christopher Kane’s collaboration with Crocs (a.k.a. Crocgate)


Christopher Kane sending models down the runway in embellished Crocs for his SS17 show nearly sent Twitter into meltdown. Never has Fashiondom been so divided. I LOVE Crocs on children, my daughter practically lives in hers all Summer. But, unless you are a hardworking, on-your-feet-all day and-night, bonafide healthcare professional, Crocs have no business anywhere near your feet in public. Period. Embellished by Christopher Kane or not.  Not that anything could stop this flooding the high street in several months’ time though. Sigh.

#2. Matty Bovan for Fashion East Womenswear SS17


I just must not be seeing what everyone else can.  This collection has got the world of fashion aflutter and I’m baffled.  The 26 year old Central Saint Martins graduate obviously has talent and flair. His AW15 MA Central Saint Martins show was awesome and since graduating last year he’s already had a stint at Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs. But this collection – WTF? It’s bold, yes. Fun even, with a punk rock/New Romantics aesthetic. But it’s also a little shambolic. And unwearable. By anyone. Has everyone else got a bad dose of the Emperor’s New Clothes or have I just lost my fashion sense? Is it me?

#3. Burberry’s AW16 and first ever “See-Now-Buy-Now” collection


In a seismic change to seasonal fashion, “shopable runway” seems to be taking hold.  First Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger, Diane Von Furstenberg and Ralph Lauren at New York Fashion Week, now Burberry. On one hand, it makes sense. Having to wait for six months for items spotted on the runway to hit the shops is a model that I’ve never fully understood. Also, many of the big houses will surely see this as a way of curbing high street copycats, who are usually able to get their products to market before the runway originals.  But on the other hand, going down this road will surely mean that smaller labels will just not be able to compete, as they are unlikely to have the resources to push things out straight off the runway.  But no one can deny that the idea of buying “in season” is a seductive one to consumers. Key pieces from the Burberry show were sold out within minutes. Is this the way forward? Let’s see.

#4. Sophia Webster’s “Dolly Birds Of Paradise” SS17 show


Pretty shoes in bird cages. Models in pretty shoes in bigger bird cages. Light, whimsical and fun. A veritable flight of fancy.

#5. Versus Boob Belt (yes I mean a belt FOR boobs)


Ok, so this probably shouldn’t be such a surprise coming from Donatella Versace.  And it was only one look from the Versus collection and probably just styling for the runway anyway.  But still, it is a belt. Worn around the boobs. A challenging look even for champion boobs.  Let’s just hope that La Versace doesn’t decide to show us how to wear the look. And anyway, didn’t Jodie Marsh do this first?

So roll on next LFW! With a crop of new talent emerging thanks to the British Fashion Council’s NewGen Mentoring Scheme, the future looks bright not just for LFW but for British fashion. Hurrah!